7) Looking under the car at the rear seat area shows four holes were drilled through the backseat floorpan next to the frame. Grommets should be used in these holes to keep them from chaffing or rattling.


9) Each little slave cylinder has a bleeder valve and an inlet port. Mount the remote with room to bleed them. Double slaves push on the pivot arm for the booster.


11) Use only non collapsible vacuum hose from the carburetor baseplate to the trunk-mounted remount unit. Since Keenan's GM 350 SB was stock, plenty of vacuum was available. If you have a cam in your motor, check to make sure you have at least 16 inches of vacuum necessary to operate the booster.


C.H. Topping & Company
520 W. Esther St., Long Beach, CA 90813
(562) 432-0901
email: chtop@earthlink.net


8) You may have to get creative (in your path) to go from under the car through the inside of the car and into the trunk. Above the floorpan, all is hidden under the back seat. It's pretty hard in this limited space to make all trick bends around four corners in 18 inches, unless you want to use a union at every turn.


10) From the combination valve under the master cylinder, on the remote unit, two lines split and go to all four wheels.


12) A barbed hose-union and plastic collar are ideal to use through the floorplan to prevent wear on the vacuum hose.


13) The best way to bleed the system is with this pressurized bleeding pot. Notice the center diaphragm that separates the air pressure side (bottom) from the brake fluid (top). This way, no air goes in the system when the pressurized fluid enters the master cylinder. Notice that the pressure lid on the master cylinder allow no leaks, plus you'll never run out of fluid.