1. Drum brakes require residual check valves to keep the wheel cylinders from collapsing inward and to hold the residual line pressure. On today's modern master cylinders, they are at the exit ports and can be pulled out with small sheet metal screw. If you are using a disc brake master cylinder (that has no check valves) on a drum brake car, you must use 10lb (psi) check valve in the lines to the drum brakes. If you subtract this from the 1`2-15 psi wheel cylinder spring pressure, you will only have 3-5 psi of pressure to overcome before the drum brakes apply. Notice in the photos that there are check valves available that will screw into the exit ports in the master cylinder, instead of the inline type.
2. If you can't get the pressure out of your current brake sys tem that would make you feel comfortable every time you apply the brake, C.H. Topping offers a remote-mounted, larger diameter booster and master cylinder that will stop your car o a dime every time. Your current brake system is simply plumbed to this larger diameter booster/master cylinder. This system is then plumbed to your brake system for increased pressure and stopping power. The remote unit has a bracket that can mount it anywhere you have extra room, like the trunk, behind the seat or wherever. For limited space under the dash or in the engine room, this is the unit to cure your low pressure brake problems.
3. Manual master cylinders have a deeper pushrod hole than power master cylinders. Reason: The power master cylinder bolts to a booster that has a short pushrod between the two and can't fall out. The manual master cylinder needs a deeper hole so the pushrod cannot fall out. Some manual master cylinders have a provision to hold the pushrod in the master cylinder so it will not come out of the deeper hole.